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Lost (And Found) In The Uco Valley
I wrote this story back in 2017, but somehow it never made it to this blog. As I get ready to return to Mendoza this week, I found myself thinking about that night again – a reminder that the best adventures usually start when your GPS gives up and kindness takes over.
There’s Getting Lost, And There’s Trespassing. (Or in my case, Both.)
“Finca privada! Finca privada!”
First let me say, it was my fault I got lost. Very lost.
As in, by myself at 11 pm in the dark on dirt roads lost. Not one electric light anywhere on the horizon.
As in, upset man on a motorcycle chasing me to tell me I was trespassing, lost.
It’s indeed possible to run away to the end of the world, to a paradise where no one can find you.
But first, you have to find it.
La Morada Lodge gives you excellent directions. They tell you not to use Google Maps, or Apple Maps. But do we Gringos listen? Noooooooo.
Welcome to the boundaries of civilization, where your faith in technology has to be surrendered. And your faith in humanity can be restored.
Because Marcela was waiting up to make me empanadas. At 9 PM, at 10 PM, at 11 PM. Way past her bedtime. Way past when she was supposed to go home.
My last-minute plans for Mendoza started with reservations for the usual places. Mendoza City, or Chacras. But after briefly visiting the Uco Valley and staying at the Vines of Mendoza, I longed to return.
The Vines is amazing. But $800/night just isn’t a reality for some of us. (Note: in 2025, let’s make that $1600.)
So using Google Maps, I set out to find a place that could give me similar views, in a similar setting. TripAdvisor confirmed that this little place called La Morada was getting stellar reviews.
And I could tell it was right across the street from The Vines. Well, sort of. If you mean down two miles of unmarked, private dirt roads is across the street.
(Roads that both Google and Apple refuse to include in their mapping. Since you have an entire world to run away from, maybe it’s for the best.)
La Morada is a modern, welcoming guesthouse with every convenience, set in the middle of a burgeoning vineyard project. Its four rooms may be the most comfortable way to experience the solitude of the Uco Valley.
And if you get lost like me? Put The Vines of Mendoza in your GPS. Pull up to the guard gate, and they’ll point you towards the entrance, just a hundred yards down the street. That’s what finally did it for me.
One Lost Night Turns Into A Circle Of Friendships.
Today, eight years later at La Morada, Google Maps works just fine, thank you very much.
And next week, I’ll be returning with friends. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve visited. But every time, the talented team delights in showing off what they’ve accomplished since my last visit.
There were only four rooms plus a little annex when I discovered the place in 2017. But these days, there’s much more on offer.
Today, La Morada offers multiple forms of hospitality, from the original Lodge to Tiny Houses with hot tubs, and an offering of larger single family residences.
Not to mention Hornero, one of the most beloved restaurants in the Uco Valley, helmed by the talented Edward Holloway.
And the surrounding vineyards of Los Chacayes have become one of the most important new wine regions of South America.
The experiences I have had because of Andres Rosberg and the La Morada team are priceless. I’ve been introduced to the top winemakers of Los Chacayes. (In one epic five-hour evening we tasted 37 wines. Or was it 52? Anyway, who’s counting.)
I’ve made new friends and discovered new possibilities. Which is exactly why I was wandering that dirt road in the first place, all those years back.
So raise a glass to late-night empanadas, wrong turns – and stories that age as well as the wine.
Full Circle: From One Glass to a Lifetime Exploring Argentina.
The first time I got acquainted with Argentine wine wasn’t during a tour or a tasting. It was on a work trip.
Years ago, my ad agency was shooting TV commercials in Buenos Aires. One evening, after a long day on set, one of the editors working alongside us offered to take me to a neighborhood wine shop. We walked in, surrounded by rows of labels I didn’t recognize. He pointed to one bottle and said, “This is the wine you should try.”
It was Angelica Zapata Malbec. (Here’s the bottle I brought home.)
That bottle became my first glass of truly great Argentine wine. I didn’t know it at the time, but that single gesture in a quiet wine shop would set something in motion — the beginning of a long, layered relationship with this country, its vineyards, and its people.
So, when I got home, I decided to try an experiment. I would let my boss or my friends buy wines from California or France when we were dining out.
But when I went to the store, I made a rule for myself: I would only buy wines from Argentina. That inspired the original name of my blog: MalbecsOnly. I started blogging about my experiment, and began to get a pretty good following.
A Friendly Nudge.
Then, one day on my social feed, I came across a reply from none other than Laura Catena, Argentina’s best-known ambassador of wine. I can’t remember the exact words of her post, but the gist was, “We’re a lot more than Malbec, you know.”
She was right. That moment changed the way I looked at Argentina’s wines — and over the years, it’s led to friendships and experiences I couldn’t have imagined at the start.
And it was also the day this little blog became Drinking Argentina. Celebrating all the wines of Argentina – Malbec, Torrontes, Cabernet Franc, the red blends, the cult classics, the Franco-Argentine partnerships, the crazy little garagista experiments – all of it.
The People Who Shaped the Journey.
I’ve honestly lost count of how many times I’ve returned to Argentina — fifteen or seventeen trips, maybe more. (Delta Air Lines probably knows the number better than I do.) But the truth is, these visits stopped being “trips” a long time ago. What I have here now are roots.
Over the years, I’ve built a web of friendships and trusted relationships that have shaped every single visit. People like Miguel Sanz, whose calm precision behind the wheel has carried me across three wine regions — and who always seems to know the one backroad that leads to something special. Chef Nadia Haron, whose inspired creativity I have followed since the beginning of my travels. Sommelier Andres Rosberg, whose insight and generosity have opened doors to conversations and tastings I never would have found on my own. Chef Edward Holloway, whose culinary genius and eye for hospitality have shaped a new generation of visitor options. Winemaker Daniel Pi, whose genius is only outweighed by his generosity. And my friend Sonia Onozawa, a Buenos Aires – based storyteller of many talents.
Then there are the places themselves — like Casa Glebinias, where the welcome feels as familiar as old friends, and La Morada Lodge, where the silence of the Uco Valley stretches out like a deep breath. Restaurants like Hornero and Siete Fuegos are no longer stops on a list; they’re the backdrop to countless conversations, shared meals, and friendships built slowly, like good wine. There’s Fierro Hotel, with a (very warm) rooftop pool that is my favorite place to wind down after a Mendoza trip, and a breakfast for the ages.
These aren’t just names on an itinerary. They’re the people and places that have layered meaning onto every glass I’ve ever raised here. They’ve shown me that Mendoza isn’t something to check off a list. It’s something to return to — and to belong to.
The Journey Ahead.
In November, I’ll be heading back once again. The trip will begin in Buenos Aires, at the Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, with wine on the patio, a walk through Recoleta, and dinner at Fogón Asado.
Then it’s west to Mendoza — to Casa Glebinias for the first half of the trip, where Luján de Cuyo’s historic vineyards still hold their quiet power. There will be tastings at Budeguer and Martino Wines, and a long lunch at Casa Vigil — home of El Enemigo and one of my favorite afternoons anywhere.
The second half takes me south to the Uco Valley, Mendoza’s new frontier, where ambition meets altitude. There, tastings await at Cuvelier Los Andes, Michelini i Mufato, and more. We’ll be in a private house beside La Morada Lodge. And of course, there’s the fire-lit theater of Siete Fuegos — because some traditions deserve to be repeated.
For now we are waitlisted at Catena Zapata, the winery where my love affair began. (Fingers crossed.) I hope we get in. Because it would be nice to go full circle, and show my friends the winery where it all began.
Seeing Argentina Through Fresh Eyes.
I can’t wait to get back – and share this Mendoza wine journey with friends who are first-time visitors. It’s all about returning to the people and places that have made Argentina feel like a second home — and sharing it with friends who are seeing it for the first time.
Where I’ve Been – And Why I’m Back.
It’s been quiet here on Drinking Argentina for a while. But I haven’t disappeared — I’ve just been walking a different trail these last couple of years. A Bourbon Trail.™
For those who aren’t aware, my day job is in advertising. And recently, that work has taken me deep into another world of storytelling: helping lead the creative and writing the new website for the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.®
It’s been a ride — literally and figuratively.
Two years exploring the backroads of Kentucky. Telling Bourbon’s story meant stepping into history, culture, and craft every bit as layered and soulful as wine.
And I have to tell you, nearly twenty years of exploring the tasting rooms of Mendoza was the perfect preparation for this assignment.
Kentucky may be thousands of miles from Argentina. But in many ways, it didn’t feel so far away. Whether I was exploring a high-desert winery in the Uco Valley or the green, rolling hills of Bardstown, Kentucky, I kept encountering the same traits. Intense local pride. Fierce dedication to quality. The camaraderie of fellow enthusiasts. And an astounding level of genuine hospitality.
What’s in the barrel might be different – but what’s in people’s hearts is exactly the same.
It’s been a phenomenal experience. Along those backroads, my team and I have been able to craft some of the storytelling I am proudest of in my career. From evocative campaign posters in airports to a global toast that connected bourbon lovers in 30 countries
Different Drink, Same Passion.
Working in Bourbon didn’t replace my love of Argentine wine. If anything, it sharpened it.
Whether it’s a bourbon barrel in Kentucky or carefully-tended old-vine Malbec in Mendoza, what moves me most are the people who make things with care, and the sense of place that clings to every bottle.
And while I’ve loved this detour down the Bourbon Trail™, a part of my heart has always stayed in Argentina — with the vineyards, the light, and the long, slow lunches with friends.
Coming Up Next.
I’m heading back to Mendoza soon for my sixteenth (maybe seventeenth? I’ve lost count) trip to Argentina. And I’ll be back on Drinking Argentina, sharing my discoveries and my unbiased opinion.
In my next post, I’ll be sharing the story of how this journey began — in a small Buenos Aires wine shop, with a single bottle of Angelica Zapata Malbec that changed everything.
In the meantime, here are a few samples from our work on the Bourbon Trail.™
Fantastic to be back in Argentina.
Back for another Argentine adventure!
This one began with an overnight at my favorite place in the world to relax after a ten-hour flight, the Palacio Duhau-Park Hyatt in Buenos Aires.
That legendary terrace is hard to beat for a relaxed breakfast or glass of wine.
This trip is a little more laizzez-faire than usual. Kind of winging it. (Don’t follow my example: you really do need to schedule and reserve visits at the wineries you really want to see.)
But I’ve visited many of the major places so now I’m just seeing where my friends and connections lead me.
What A Difference A Year Makes! A look at Catena’s Altamira Malbecs 2018 and 2019.
Catena’s Appellation Series brings interesting new options to the $23 range
I came across this wine as I was searching for promising 2018 bottles. Renowned sommelier Andres Rosberg had advised me that 2018 was an incredible year in Mendoza – that if you couldn’t make great wine in 2018 you weren’t really trying.
By now, you’re familiar with Catena’s Appellation Series, which has been mentioned on these pages before. Among Catena’s regional varietals, the one from the Altamira area has soaked up the most praise and the highest scores – because of the minerality and the real sense of terroir you can enjoy at a relatively low price. I tried the 2018 (rated 93+ by Luis Gutierrez of RobertParker.com) and was fairly blown away. So much so that I split a case with my dinner partners who were enjoying the bottle with me.
Here’s what Gutierrez had to say: “The star of the appellation range is usually the Malbec from Altamira, and the 2018 Appellation Paraje Altamira Malbec does not disappoint. One of the plots was harvested quite early, and the rest fermented with full clusters and finished fermentation without skins, which seems to have added to the elegance/ethereal character of the wine. It’s expressive and floral, varietal, and with the full chalky texture that is a distinct characteristic of Altamira. It’s tasty, the tannins are polished and there is an almost salty sensation in the finish. 36,000 bottles produced.”
So when I went looking for more, the retailer was out of the 2018 but had the 2019, also very highly rated by Gutierrez at 93.
He said: “Following the path of the 2018, the 2019 Appellation Paraje Altamira Malbec is phenomenal. It shows freshness, elegance, balance, complexity and nuance as well. It’s seamless, precise and ethereal with lots of inner energy and light. As the 2018 was, it’s expressive and floral, varietal and with the full chalky texture that is a distinct characteristic of Altamira. It’s tasty, the tannins are polished and there is an almost salty sensation in the finish. It was bottled in April 2020, and volume has now grown to 54,000 bottles.”
So judging from the reviews, I was expecting much the same thing.
I bought a bottle of the 2019 to share with my new friends at El Viñedo Local, a South American restaurant in Atlanta.
Dude. These two wines are so different.
The 2018 was love at first taste, straight out of the bottle. You sensed the minerality and complexity, but it was accessible and enjoyable right away. The 2019 was a completely different wine. It was so, austere. Almost off-putting at first taste. It took a full 15 minutes in glass to open up and turn into a really enjoyable wine.
What’s the difference? The extra year of age? Normally you would expect an older wine to need more oxygen and time, but not in this case.
I firmly prefer the 2018, but the later year is definitely interesting, and want to see what another year or two of age brings to this promising bottle.
5 wines to consider for Malbec World Day
For lovers of Argentine wine, it’s the happiest day of the year. While “World Malbec Day” would make more sense to the American ear, we’ll leave it in the form created by our South American friends.
Argentine wine is the best it has ever been. With more diverse, high-quality options than at any point in history.
By now the story has been well-told of how the original Malbec grapes in France were all destroyed by phylloxera in the mid 1800s. But the few vines that had been exported to the Mendoza area of Argentina not only survived, but thrived, taking on a life of their own.
What makes Argentine wine so compelling? First, some of the highest altitude vineyards in the world create powerful patterns of very warm days and very cool nights.
A desert setting that requires drip irrigation and delivers very limited water to the grapes, stresses the grapes and causes them to grow highly concentrated in flavor.
Calcareous soils, especially in areas of the Uco Valley, which are allowing winemakers to focus less on oak and more on terroir.
And the multiple cycles of financial crisis have left Argentina with a currency exchange rate which makes the wines favorably priced in other parts of the world.
Whether you are a first-time sipper or a long-time enthusiast, here are five wines to consider for your enjoyment on this occasion.
Zuccardi Serie “A“- Sebastian Zuccardi and his family are taking on a new importance in Argentine winemaking, at their winery in the far south of the Uco Valley that would be inspiring architecture for the 1st space base on Mars. They are pushing the boundaries, constantly experimenting, and never settling for what was good enough last year. A wine distributor tells me confidentially that as far as Quality-Price-Ratio, this affordable bottle is the best thing in his inventory. $13, at Total Wine, Local Vine and most larger liquor stores.
Susana Balbo Crios Malbec – Women are making a powerful mark on Argentine winemaking, with Laura Catena known as a pioneer and Susana Balbo having a powerful influence in multiple arenas. Balbo was the first woman in Argentina to earn a university degree in Enology, and ever since that time has been blazing trails in what was a males-only industry. She also ran for Argentina’s national Congress and won – representing the province of Mendoza. Try her Crios line of wines for an affordable taste of quality, around $15.
Trapiche Terroir Series and Trapiche Iscay – We’ve raved before about Daniel Pi, the chief winemaker at Trapiche. His Tres14 and Imperfecto personal family projects are among our favorite wines ever. But for today, let’s focus on his day job, leading production at one of the largest winemakers on the planet, owned by Grupo Penaflor. How do you deliver on quality while making 133 million cases a year? With the right wine at the right price in a variety of ranges. Today, look for a bottle of Trapiche’s Malbec Terroir Series, sourced from individual unique vineyards in 2012 – Coletto, Finca Ambrosia, or Orellana. Or, look for the Trapiche Iscay Malbec-Cabernet Franc blend, one of the highest-rated wines in the country. All of them are special and exceptional wines in the $50 range.
I visited Trapiche almost completely by chance, sending out a last-minute Twitter DM as I was flying into Mendoza, thinking it was madness to try, but too compelling not to ask. Daniel Pi and his colleague Sergio Case not only were welcoming and generous with their time, but invited me to come back on Sunday night to an unbelievable dinner by two chefs who were born in Mendoza but now have a renowned restaurant in Spain, Fierro. It was one of the happiest and most memorable dinners of my life. And befits the spirit of hospitality that I have always found in this country.
Wherever and however you are celebrating, I hope it is in the spirit of that dinner, and I wish you a happy Malbec World Day!
Some Christmas gift suggestions for your wine-loving friends.
Happy Holidays! You may be asking yourself, what are some good, relatively affordable wines I can give as gifts? Here are a few suggestions that won’t break the bank, as well as one that will.
For this season, we’re trying to keep the focus on wines you can actually find and buy. All of these are well-distributed in the United States, so you should be able to find them all via Wine-Searcher.
Black Tears – This is a big boy. Grown at 4400 feet at the San Pablo estate in the Uco Valley, and aged for 24 months in oak barrels, Black Tears from the Tapiz winery has a reputation as a dense, intense red wine that deserves food to match; that’s why it’s a steakhouse favorite. The good news is that in recent years, it’s being made with considerably more finesse, and integrating the oak really well into a more interesting, complex flavor profile. It is almost always available at Costco locations, at around $40.
Catena Appellation Series – Originally sold in restaurants, these bottles from Argentina’s best known winery, led by Nicolas and Laura Catena, let your recipient explore the soil and weather conditions of a specific region of Mendoza. And, they’re relatively affordable, – around $20. Visit Catena’s info page here.
Cocodrilo – this relatively new red blend from Paul Hobbs’ Vina Cobos is about $25. I find it more interesting than the $20 Felino series. It’s in stock at Beer Girl in Atlanta.
Cuvelier los Andes Grand Vin – It’s nearly impossible to let a list go by without mentioning my favorite go-to winery, and this venture by a celebrated French winemaking family in Argentina’s Uco Valley continues to be a price/quality favorite. A red blend, made in the Bordeaux tradition, with impressive quality for only around $32. You’ll find it at Tower Wine and Spirits in Atlanta.
El Enemigo Malbec – Priced in the mid $20s, this well-crafted Malbec grown at nearly 5,000 feet is a great introduction to the talents of Catena chief winemaker Alejandro Vigil, at this personal project co-owned by Vigil and his wife Adrianna Catena. Good information from distributor Winebow here.
Gran Enemigo Cabernet Franc Single Vineyard Gualtallary – Or if you really, really like someone (or want them to be impressed with you) get them a bottle of his unbelievable Cab Franc, of which the 2013 vintage earned an astonishing 100 points from RobertParker.com, and the 2016 was awarded 99 points. To the question, “is that wine worth $100?” I’d reply, “Is your friend?” Find a retailer here.
Trapiche Terroir Series – Trapiche, one of Argentina’s largest wineries, thinks small with these beautifully made premier wines from individual small farms in Mendoza. These are around $50, and well worth it. I’m partial to the Finca Ambrosia. Visit Trapiche’s information page here.
Pajarito Amichu
It has taken far too long for me to share the story of my amazing visit to the Trapiche winery last year. There is so much to tell that I am going to break it up into segments!
One of the deals made with Trapiche when Daniel Pi set out to create his Tres14 line: they agreed to let Pi set out with his own family label – on condition that other up-and-coming winemakers at Trapiche were also allowed to do it.
Sergio Case is one of those winemakers, and he joined Daniel Pi and I for a tasting of his new line, Pajarito Amichu.
I was fully prepared to smile and nod and say, when can we get to the fancy Trapiche labels thank you very much, but Sergio Case’s wines are a story in their own right. Fresh, approachable, and delicious. And an outstanding value for the dollar.
My own wine tastes have diversified since I began exploring Argentine wine. I was drawn in by the highly-oaked, concentrated red wines favored by international consultants, but I have come to enjoy fresher wines with more minerality that don’t have to be stored in a cellar for ten years to unlock their best potential.
Sergio is animated as he describes his vision for the wines.
It speaks well of Trapiche that they allow this level of freedom and innovation among its winemakers. It keeps their thinking fresh and open to new possibilities. I can’t wait to see where this freedom takes them next.
Cuvelier los Andes – A happy return to one of my favorite wineries.
“Since you were here last, nothing has changed.”
That might just be the best news of my trip.
You see, after four years, I didn’t really need to make another visit to Cuvelier los Andes. I just wanted to.
So when another booking didn’t work out, I was secretly thrilled.
Because to me, in a way I can’t fully explain, entering the gates of the Clos de los Siete vineyards feels like coming home.
By now the story has been well told: renowned wine consultant Michel Rolland was looking for the perfect piece of property in the Uco Valley. He brought together five renowned French families with the goal of developing a world-class source of grapes. Each winery could make the wines it pleases, and each would contribute grapes to a wine called, Clos de los Siete.
Today, Cuvelier los Andes, Monteviejo, Bodega Rolland, and Bodega Diamandes continue to participate in the Clos de los Siete project, while neighbor Flechas de los Andes (another favorite of mine) has chosen to go independent.
But for me it is Cuvelier that is consistently the price/value champion. At every price point, they deliver deep, complex yet appealing wines that will be welcome to Americans who enjoy Napa Valley reds.
After all, when you have a good thing going, why change?
So while other winemakers experiment with concrete eggs and other trends of the moment, the Cuveliers are just fine cultivating their wines on their property using the techniques they perfected in France, thank you very much.
That is not to say they are standing still.
Adrián Manchon tells me there is much to learn each year. After years of working with their vineyard, they have identified specific plots that work best for each label. He says, “We have these micro-terroirs on our property. There are 55 hectares of property, and each hectare has its own distinct terroir that we have identified through laboratory testing.”
My sommelier friends tell me that the quality of the wines coming out of Cuvelier los Andes is getting better every year.
The winemakers are increasingly excited about their Malbec Rosé, a crisp, drinkable summer wine made in the French fashion. It is among my favorite Rosés from any grape in this price range. They are also at work on a new wine, Cuvee Natur, a natural malbec / merlot / syrah / cabernet sauvignon blend that is 100% free of sulfites, that should be in the market around 2020.
Something else to look forward to: Cuvelier los Andes bottled Petit Verdot for the first time 2017, in a very limited edition, with only 500 bottles made. Adrián tells me it will be very good quality due to their approach to micro-vinification – it should be in the market in 2020.
He says that the 2019 harvest is extremely promising. The quantity of the crop was not large, but the quality is very good.
After a few minutes of chatting at the entrance, the chief winemaker is ready to show off his product.
“We have the good wine. I’ve prepared it for tasting,” says Adrián.
Oh okay. if you insist.
We tasted the entire range, from entry level-reds to the Rosé to the superb Grand Vin and Grand Malbec. My hosts were more than generous with their collection, but as much as I love the wines, what I enjoyed the most was the conversation and getting to know the team better.
The big surprise in the entry-level wines for our group was the Merlot. We agreed it had more elegance and complexity than the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Malbec. I’m not a big Merlot drinker, but after tasting Cuvelier’s offering, I’m reconsidering.
We progressed to the Colección blend, in the $20 range, which I’ve said on these pages may be South America’s best value in the price range. Happily, it’s readily available Stateside at a variety of retail outlets, including Atlanta’s Ansley Park Kroger.
We had a taste of the Rosé 2018, and it was every bit as good as promised.
Then it was on to the Grand Vin and Grand Malbec, the winery’s premium offerings. They age beautifully, and my own cellar is as full of them as my budget allows.
The winery shop also features a really interesting wine that we did not taste, called Grand Colección. When hail destroyed the vast majority of the crop in November 2010, they opted not to make the Grand Vin or Grand Malbec, and to put the best remaining grapes into a blend available only at the winery. (For my money the regular 2010 Colección sold at retail is still a great bottle if you can find it Stateside.)
Adrián Manchon says that the United States is one of their biggest markets, because the quality/price ratio is embraced by American wine buyers.
In a world of change, there is something to be said for sticking with the plan. Cuvelier los Andes continues to impress, and I can’t wait to see where their wines go from here.
